Sunday, August 24, 2014

EL-DJEM, A SMALL TOWN WITH HISTORY AT ITS HEART


EL-DJEM, A SMALL TOWN WITH HISTORY AT 

ITS HEART

Tags: El-Djem , history , Rome , tourism 

  • 99
     
    Share
El-Djem, Tunisia. Image credit: Tristan Dreisbach, Tunisia live
El-Djem, Tunisia. Image credit: Tristan Dreisbach, Tunisia live
Upon arriving in this small city, you might wonder what all the fuss is about. El-Djem appears to be a fairly standard inland Tunisian town, with dusty streets, men smoking cigarettes in working-class cafes, and the same fast food choices found anywhere else in the country.
But a slight bend in the road will suddenly reveal a massive, 1,800-year-old Roman amphitheater sitting in the middle of the community.
El-Djem, Tunisia. Image credit: Tristan Dreisbach, Tunisia live
El-Djem, Tunisia. Image credit: Tristan Dreisbach, Tunisia live
Built around 238 A.D., it is slightly smaller than its more famous counterpart in Rome, but much of the original structure has been preserved. Tunisia’s relatively hands-off approach to such monuments means visitors have a great deal of freedom to roam about and explore the stone corridors and caves hidden around the large central arena.
El-Djem, Tunisia. Image credit: Tristan Dreisbach, Tunisia live
El-Djem, Tunisia. Image credit: Tristan Dreisbach, Tunisia live
El-Djem was known as Thysdrus during Roman times. The community prospered as a center of olive oil manufacture under Roman rule, and locals sought to construct a facility that could rival those in the empire’s capital.
El-Djem, Tunisia. Image credit: Tristan Dreisbach, Tunisia live
El-Djem, Tunisia. Image credit: Tristan Dreisbach, Tunisia live
The structure is 138 meters long and 114 meters wide. Visitors can roam underground passageways that once held gladiators, animals, and prisoners before they were brought into the arena for the bloody entertainment of assembled spectators.
El-Djem, Tunisia. Image credit: Tristan Dreisbach, Tunisia live
El-Djem, Tunisia. Image credit: Tristan Dreisbach, Tunisia live
It is estimated that the amphitheater could host 60,000 people, who would watch the day’s featured fighters dramatically raised up on platforms from below the arena floor.
El-Djem, Tunisia. Image credit: Tristan Dreisbach, Tunisia live
El-Djem, Tunisia. Image credit: Tristan Dreisbach, Tunisia live
UNESCO has designated it a world heritage site. The interiors of the structure are covered with etched-in graffiti, some of it over a century old.
El-Djem, Tunisia. Image credit: Tristan Dreisbach, Tunisia live
El-Djem, Tunisia. Image credit: Tristan Dreisbach, Tunisia live
One of the charms of el-Djem is that it is never crowded. Perhaps a few busloads of tourists will arrive, but you can freely wander around the amphitheater, rarely encountering another person. It provides an intimate connection to a time when modern-day Tunisia was part of the massive Roman Empire encircling the Mediterranean Sea.
El-Djem, Tunisia. Image credit: Tristan Dreisbach, Tunisia live
El-Djem, Tunisia. Image credit: Tristan Dreisbach, Tunisia live
Several levels of narrow passageways encircle the structure. Towering arches are a testament to the ingenuity and skill of the ancient builders.
El-Djem, Tunisia. Image credit: Tristan Dreisbach, Tunisia live
El-Djem, Tunisia. Image credit: Tristan Dreisbach, Tunisia live
Part of the structure was dismantled over the centuries, used as building material for the modern town of el-Djem. The amphitheater served as a fort for the native Amazigh people during the Arab conquest of the 600s. The western wall was destroyed by Ottoman troops in the 17th century.
El-Djem, Tunisia. Image credit: Tristan Dreisbach, Tunisia live
El-Djem, Tunisia. Image credit: Tristan Dreisbach, Tunisia live
In the summer, a symphonic music festival brings world-class classical music to the historic site.
El-Djem, Tunisia. Image credit: Tristan Dreisbach, Tunisia Live
El-Djem, Tunisia. Image credit: Tristan Dreisbach, Tunisia Live
A louage, the Tunisian term for a long-distance shared taxi, may be the quickest way to get there from Tunis, a trip running just over two hours. But it is not a popular route, and you can easily spend an hour in the station waiting for enough passengers to fill up the van so you can get on your way. Train service is also available.
El-Djem, Tunisia. Image credit: Tristan Dreisbach, Tunisia live
El-Djem, Tunisia. Image credit: Tristan Dreisbach, Tunisia live
El-Djem is just 60 kilometers from the coastal resort city of Sousse, and trains run regularly between the cities. It may be best to see both in the same trip, spending a morning in el-Djem and an evening in Sousse.
El-Djem, Tunisia. Image credit: Tristan Dreisbach, Tunisia live
El-Djem, Tunisia. Image credit: Tristan Dreisbach, Tunisia live
While el-Djem may be a small town, the massive monument at its heart will surely make a trip worth your while.
El-Djem, Tunisia. Image credit: Tristan Dreisbach, Tunisia Live
El-Djem, Tunisia. Image credit: Tristan Dreisbach, Tunisia Live
- See more at: http://www.tunisia-live.net/2014/05/23/el-djem-a-small-town-with-history-at-its-heart/#sthash.AJSTQnTA.dpuf

TOURISM FIGURES LOWER THAN EXPECTED


TOURISM FIGURES LOWER THAN EXPECTED

Numbers better than 2013, but still below pre-2010 levels
  • 89
     
    Share
Hotel in Hammamet. Image credit: Wikimedia Commons user R. Engelhardt
Hotel in Hammamet. Image credit: Wikimedia Commons user R. Engelhardt
The latest figures released by Tunisia’s Ministry of Tourism for January-May 2014 show that tourism, while increasing from 2013, remains below pre-2010 levels.
The figures come as a disappointment after Minister of Tourism Amel Karboul had expressed hope earlier this year that the number of visitors to Tunisia this year could exceed those seen before the revolution. Between January and May of this year, 1.97 million tourists have come to Tunisia, compared to 2.21 million for the same period in 2010.
According to Jerry Sorkin, who runs the tour company TunisUSA, the government’s goal of reaching pre-2010 tourism levels had been “overly ambitious.”
“In the years since the revolution, consumers have been exposed to the aggressive marketing campaigns of other countries in the region and are now bombarded with alternatives,” Sorkin told Tunisia Live.
While Sorkin praised Karboul’s use of social media, which he described as “extremely cost-efficient,” he said that more money needed to be spent on “multi-pronged campaigns” that emphasized political and security achievements, in order to bring tourists back.
The Tunisian Hotel Federation (French: FTH) criticized Karboul for lacking a “clear vision,” and, according to Kapitalis, alleged that she had ignored many suggestions from hotel owners.
Both Sorkin and Kapitalis claimed that the biggest decline was in visitors from traditional markets such as France and Italy.

ISRAELIS ALLOWED IN TUNISIA, PRIME MINISTER ANNOUNC








Tourists at the el Ghriba synagogue in Djerba. Image credit: Tunisia Live

Tunisian Prime Minister Mehdi Jomaa said Tuesday his government has decided to allow Israeli citizens to enter the country despite the lack of formal diplomatic ties with Israel.

The announcement came in response to a request by National Constituent Assembly (NCA) members to hold a hearing on the subject.

Jomaa said the decision reflected the government’s desire for the upcoming Jewish pilgrimage to the Ghriba synagogue on the southeast island of Djerba to be a success.

“This is a known tradition for us,” Jomaa said, according to a video of his remarks posted by radio station Mosaique FM, referring to the annual Jewish pilgrimage.

“We’ve met with tourism professionals, they tell us, in order for the tourism season to succeed, the Ghriba date must succeed,” he said.

Over 80 NCA members have signed a petition demanding Minister of Tourism Amel Karboul and Deputy Minister of Interior Ridha Sfar appear before the assembly for questioning on the government’s policy on the entry of Israeli tourists. [display_posts type="related" limit="3" position="right"]

It is unclear whether Israeli tourists have already been allowed into the country.

Samia Abbou, an NCA member elected with the Congress for the Republic party, is one of the members who demanded a hearing.

“The [initial] purpose of this petition was to verify the fact that Israelis entered the country,” she told Tunisia Live, explaining that it was started before Jomaa’s remarks Tuesday, which she added caught members off-guard.

“We were surprised,” she said, that the prime minister would overtly say Israelis would be allowed to travel to Tunisia.

“The fact that Israelis with Israeli passports entered the country is recognition of the Israeli state and this is normalization,” Abbou said. “This is a red line.”

“We have vengeance with [Israelis]. They killed our children,” Abbou said, referring to the 1985 Israeli bombing of the Palestinian Liberation headquarters in Hammam Chott, 25 kilometers southeast of Tunis.

During the drafting process for Tunisia’s post-revolutionary constitution, a clause forbidding “normalization,” meaning the recognition of the state of Israel and the extension of diplomatic ties, was discussed but not adopted. Israel is not mentioned in the charter, which does refer to Tunisia’s support for Palestine.

Mehdi Jomaa at CSIS in Washington, DC. Image credit: Prime Ministry Facebook page

Abbou referred to a trip Karboul took to Israel prior to joining the government. Karboul has acknowledged the trip and says she was interrogated at Tel Aviv airport.

“She [Karboul] knows normalization is a crime,” Abbou said.

Karboul refused to comment to Tunisia Live, saying she would wait for the hearing.

On Tuesday, Jomaa defended his government’s decision.

“[The Ghriba pilgrimage] has inherited procedures that have been employed for years,” he said, arguing his government’s decision was only to make the existing procedures more transparent.

“We will not normalize relations,” he said.

Jomaa, Abbou said, does not have the right to speak about the issue. Jomaa is an unelected caretaker prime minister selected through talks between political parties and civil society groups.

“He should work and shut up,” Abbou said.

Israeli citizens were permitted to enter the country under former president Zine el-Abidine Ben Ali, who fled the country during the 2011 revolution.

In March, Yigal Palmor, spokesperson for Israel’s Ministry of Foreign Affairs told Tunisia Live Israeli travel to Tunisia under Ben Ali was “very regular.”

A group of Israeli citizens on a Norwegian Cruise Lines ship were refused entry during a port call in La Goulette in early March. Norwegian Cruise Lines canceled service to Tunisia after the incident.

Israeli visitors to Tunisia need to arrange their trip through a travel agent as a group with a specific purpose, such as a conference, and receive special permission from the Ministry of Foreign Affairs, which issues visas, Karboul told Tunisia Live earlier this month. Individual Israelis wishing to travel to Tunisia will not be issued visas.

Visitors to Ghriba for the pilgrimage are allowed in under special circumstances.

While over 80 assembly members signed the petition calling for the hearing, it is not clear how much support it holds in the 217-member NCA.

Osama al-Saghir from the Islamist Ennahdha party, which controls a plurality of the assembly’s seats, told Tunisia Live there was no official party position on the issue and that he did not sign the petition.

“It’s not the time to do something like this,” he said.

“We have a technocrat government, we should let them work and we should finish our work and move to elections.”

- See more at: http://www.tunisia-live.net/2014/04/23/israelis-allowed-in-tunisia-prime-minister-announces/#sthash.nwdc0bEn.dpuf



Tunis dates from at least the 4th Century BC when Berbers founded the town of Tunes. Tunis is close to Carthage and many visitors to Tunis visit the historic Carthaginian capital’s UNESCO world heritage site. Tunis though was destroyed by the romans at the same time as Carthage and has a lot of history to offer.



Rebuilt by the Romans under Augustus Tunis became an important town and has remained so ever since; parts from almost every stage of Tunis’ history are still here though the city is now a vast metropolis and primarily built during the last century.




The centre of the city is where most tourists head and home to most of the city’s many hotels. The old city area known as the Medina can be reached by bus from the airport outside the city but may be easier to reach by Taxi; once in the city you can get around on the suburban rail service as well as buses.
One of Tunis’ must see attractions is the Bardo Museum: partly for the collection and partly because it is located in a marvellous 13th Century Ottoman palace. The museum itself covers the entire history of Tunisia: that is a lot to take in so allow a full day. You may be tempted to only bother with the Carthaginian and Roman sections of the museum but this would be a mistake.



bardo museum tunis
Bardo Museum in Tunisia

Another great attraction is the Zitouna Mosque, not only is it Tunisia’s largest, it dates from the 8th century. Although non-Muslims are not permitted into the Mosque you can visit the courtyard and take it much of the architecture including the distinctive minaret, a 19th century addition.




The Souk in Tunis feels a lot less touristy than those in some North African towns and cities; it is a vibrant place where people live and work. Because of this and because people are primarily interested in going about their business they will not bother you as a tourist. You may find some souvenirs here but the food is also well worth trying for genuine local fare at great prices



souk tunisia
Souks in the Medina, Tunis, Tunisia




As well as Tunisian food you will find food that is influenced by French cooking as well as French dishes. Restaurants selling Tunisian food may be cheaper than those specialising in international cuisines and you will also get much better value and good sized portions.




For day trips Carthage is nearby and along the coast there are resorts with great beaches, one thing that Tunis, despite being on the coast, is lacking.